woke up that morning exactly where I wanted to wake up. That might sound odd, but what I mean is that The Moss is a beautiful, mysterious place that seems to communicate distant, but present threats: "Step in the wrong spot and you'll not be found again." For those of us who appreciate the solitude of the trail, and whose imagination doesn't run too wild, it was a magnificent campsite.

 

On a side note: I've seen the location of  my campsite listed as "Ba' Bridge" on some maps and as "Ba Bridge" on others. I've stuck with the apostrophe for no other reason than that's the way I first saw it written. The word ba' with the apostrophe indicates a ball, a game using a ball, or a dance. The word ba with no apostrophe is a term for bellow or bleat (think sheep, "Baa"); which, I think, could make sense if it includes the bugling from the stags that I heard all night. Does anyone know the correct spelling?

 

The previous night I had checked my progress on the maps and calculated that I needed to average a little over 10 miles each of the next three days. That's considerably less than the 16+ miles I had been doing each day. Knowing that, I took my time in the morning. A fog had arisen before I awoke and made the place even more atmospheric. I walked up and down the trail taking photos and videos. Now, it's probably obvious to many of you, I learned that walking through fog can be atmospheric, but it doesn't lend itself to photographs when you're standing in the middle of it. I returned to camp and allowed myself a deliberately slow pace for packing up.

 

I broke camp at Ba' Bridge and headed for the ridge of Gualainn Liath Ghiuthias. I crossed that and entered Glen Coe. To the northeast was Rannoch Moor proper. This is another of the sights that I had longed to walk by. I had been by it several times on the A82, but that doesn't compare to approaching it from the trail. Rannoch Moor is even more desolate than The Moss; however, it had stirred my imagination since my early readings of Robert Louis Stevenson and my frequent viewings of my favorite painting in my parents' house, John Pettie's Disbanded. I paused here to enjoy the moment.

 

The West Highland Way took me by the Glencoe Ski Centre. I had a brief respite in this spot years ago to sample a dram of the newly released Penderyn malt with two friends. A good memory but I was more focused on Blackrock Cottage. This was, and is, one of the huts of the Ladies Scottish Climbing Club, established in the early 20th century. At the time, women's participation in activities such as hill-walking and climbing was frowned upon - they were too delicate and it would be too heavy a trial to their morals and good standing. The club is still active and the Blackrock Cottage stands as a testament to their trailblazing on the hills and with equality.

 

After a walk around the area I moved on, which required yet another, but my last, crossing of A82. I headed directly to King George Hotel. It was undergoing major renovation at the time of my walk so was there was not much to view. Perhaps a quarter mile up the trail I decided to pause for my first break. This was a shorter day so I was not concerned about taking a full 30-minute rest. However, I was now heading toward the Devil's Staircase and I wanted to hydrate and take in a few calories before taking it on.

 

Not long after I was at the base of the Devil's Staircase. This is a climb to the col between Stob Mhic Mhartuin and Beinn Bheag. I live in the Pacific Northwest and my stomping ground is the Cascade Mountains - a brief climb like this would be a typical morning's walk. However, I let it get in my head that I had already walked 76 miles and my energy was probably drained. I chose to put my camera away and focus on the effort of walking. As it turned out it was a somewhat challenging, but quite achievable climb. I briefly regretted not having had my camera out as it was a beautifully clear day and the views were stunning. In the end, though, I have my memories of the place and I'm sure I'll be back again some time in the future.

 

The ascent of the Devil's Staircase meant that I had left Glen Coe. I could now see Ben Nevis - Fort William and the northern terminus of the West Highland Way were at its base.

 

Early morning fog drifts over The MossRannoch Moor. Robert Louis Stevenson wrote, "A wearier looking desert a man never saw." Also the site of a memorably brief visit in Trainspotting.Buachaille Etive MorApproaching Devil's Staircase - it's much steeper than it appears hereAt the top of Devil's Staircase - Ben Nevis in the distanceThe long road to KinlochlevenRiver Leven<>1 - 7The next destination was Kinlochleven and my fifth night's camp. The trail to there follows old paths, military roads, and service roads. It was lovely in its own way, but not remarkable in history or world-class vistas. One interesting occurrence. As I was on the final stretch to Kinlochleven I came across two gentleman heading the other way, up the road, dragging an outfitted canoe riding on two small wheels. I spoke with them for a bit and they told me they were heading toward the reservoir for a day of trout fishing and an overnight camp. The younger gentleman was in his his twenties or early thirties and the older gentleman appeared to be in his fifties. I took them for father/son, uncle/nephew, or simply two friends of widely varying ages. Regardless of the relationship, the younger man was in front pulling the canoe up the steep slope while the older gentleman appeared perfectly content with his requirement of providing the occasional push.

 

I made my way down to Kinlochleven and found a suitable site for my camp. I had been carrying my Delorme inReach Explorer which provides for two-way text messaging via satellite. It's a good safety device. However, my guess is that I'm like most who have this device - it's primary use is for people back home. I can send a pre-porgrammed text that includes my current GPS coordinates. The person back home receiving the text can open it and it automatically opens a map showing them where I am. If people back home learn that they don't need to worry, then I'm much more likely to receive permission to go on other multi-day hikes in the future. The device worked flawlessly and I'm currently at home making plans for my next adventure.